Macellum of Pozzuoli

On the 10^th of January [1832], I accompanied him to Pozzouli, and the late Mr. Laing Meason was of the party.  Here we succeeded in getting Sir Walter placed upon  a heap of ruins, where he might see the remains of the Thermae, commonly called the Temple of Serapis.  His observation was, that we might tell him anything, and he would believe at all, for many of his friends, and particularly Mr. Morritt, had frequently tried to drive classical antiquities, as they were called, into his head, but they had always found his “skull too thick”.

From John Gibson Lockhart’s “Memoirs of the Life of Sir Walter Scott”, The Temple of Serapis mentioned above is the Macellum of Pozzuoli, in the province of Naples.  It was excavated in the 18^th century, and a statue of Serapis was found there, indicating the site was a Serapeum. 

Murat's Road

December 26, [Strada Nuova].—Went ashore; admitted to pratique, and were received here. Walter has some money left, which we must use or try a begging-box, for I see no other resource, since they seem to have abandoned me so. Go ashore each day to sight-seeing. Have the pleasure to meet Mr. and Mrs. Laing-Meason of Lindertis, and have their advice and assistance and company in our wanderings almost every day. Mr. Meason has made some valuable remarks on the lava where the villas of the middle ages are founded: the lava shows at least upon the ancient maritime villas of the Romans; so the boot of the moderns galls the kibe of the age preceding them; the reason seems to be the very great durability with which the Romans finished their domestic architecture of maritime arches, by which they admitted the sea into their lower houses.

We were run away with, into the grotto very nearly, but luckily stopped before we entered, and so saved our lives. We have seen the Strada Nuova—a new access of extreme beauty which the Italians owe to Murat.

The Bay of Naples is one of the finest things I ever saw. Vesuvius controls it on the opposite side of the town.

The Strada Nuova, as Scott mentions in his journal entry of December 26, 1831, was built during the reign of Napoleon’s former Marshal, Joachim Murat, who married Napoleon’s sister Caroline, and became King of Naples in 1808.  His reign lasted until 1815.

Leaving Malta

‘December 13, [Naples].--We left Malta on this day, and after a most picturesque voyage between the coast of Sicily and Malta arrived here on the 17th, where we were detained for quarantine, whence we were not dismissed till the day before Christmas. I saw Charles, to my great joy, and agreed to dine with his master, Right Hon. Mr. Hill, resolving it should be my first and last engagement at Naples. Next morning much struck with the beauty of the Bay of Naples. It is insisted that my arrival has been a signal for the greatest eruption from Vesuvius which that mountain has favoured us with for many a day. I can only say, as the Frenchman said of the comet supposed to foretell his own death, "Ah, messieurs, la comète me fait trop d'honneur." Of letters I can hear nothing. There are many English here, of most of whom I have some knowledge.’

Naples is sounding pretty good right about now, with winter temperatures finally arriving.  Scott arrived on December 13, 1831 (per his journal), and did not leave until April 16^th, the following year.  From Naples, the Scott tour headed to Rome.  Scott’s bid to regain health succeeded only so far, as he lived less than six months past April.