The Summer Tour Reaches Holland

In the wake of Napoleon's defeat at Waterloo (June 18, 1815), Walter Scott's 1815 Tour of Waterloo and Paris (published in John Scott's journal of that name) reached the shores of Helvoet, sailing up the Maes en route to Bergen-op-zoom.

A few words from Walter Scott on first visiting the Antwerp Gate reveal something of what he kept in his memory:

'Thence we proceeded to the Antwerp gate, between which and the water-port gate, an attack was made by the column under General Cooke; and were shown the place, near the former, where Colonel Macdonald fell. A demolished garden, in which part of Cooke's division had sustained severe loss, and the spot where General Skerret was wounded, were also pointed out to us.


While we walked along the ramparts, on which we remarked several of the trees riddled with musket shot, the sky was frequently illuminated with flashes of sheet lightning ; and I well recollect the solemn feelings with which the scene impressed us, when listening to the melancholy details given us of this bold, though unfortunate attempt; " and heard," as Sir W. Scott relates, " from below the hollow roll of the drums announcing the setting of the watch, and the deep and sullen ' Wer da' of the sentinels, as they challenged those who passed their station." *
 
* See Paul's Letters, letter ii...'

More of the Tour to Waterloo and Paris

'...In the evening we reached Newcastle, whence we proceeded next morning to York. The coach was quite full, and we had not of course much conversation. Scott was, I believe, chiefly engaged in reading " Scott's Visit to Paris" during the greater part of the way.

We attended service in the Cathedral on Sunday ; and on arriving at Hull in the afternoon, were informed, that in order to reach the ports of Holland it was necessary to continue our journey as far as Harwich...'
 
The tour began three days ago.  Walter Scott and his entourage attended services at York Cathedral on July 30, 1815.  The book Walter was reading along the way, "Scott's Visit to Paris" was written by travel-mate John Scott who authored the "Journal of a tour to Waterloo..." from which today's post derives.  The difficulty of writing an original travelogue on Paris was current even then, as (John) Scott notes:
 
"PARIS, which lately was the safest of all subjects for a writer to select, is now, or at least will be, by the time this work can make its appearance, one of the most dangerous. Where is the family that has not sent out its traveller, or travellers, to the capital of France? Minute oral accounts of its wonders have been rendered at every tea-table. Criticisms on its arts, and manners, have found their way, in soft whispers, across shop-counters, and sleep has been expelled from the insides of stage-coaches by anecdotes of its events and its inhabitants. How many letters have been despatched, from the very spot of observation, to " dear papas," and " dear mammas," and other dears, not likely to feel less interested in the communications of the writers ! Where is the news-paper, weekly or daily, that has net to boast of its special series of articles on Paris ? What review has not been crowded with criticisms, on the many pamphlets, and volumes, that have had this city for their theme ? A style of information, adapted to the particular taste of every class of inquirers, has surely, then, by this time, been furnished; and as to facts, perhaps it would be more serviceable to take from, than add to, the number that have already been recorded...

Tour to Waterloo and Paris

Summer is a good time to think of light topics such as travel. With that in mind, Sir Walter Scott embarked on a trip to the continent on July 27, 1815.  The trip is described in his cousin and traveling companion John Scott's "Journal of a Tour to Waterloo and Paris, in company with Sir Walter Scott".

'Shortly after the surrender of Paris to the Allies in 1815, I was informed that Sir Walter Scott proposed, in company with Mr. Alexander Pringle the younger, of Whythank, and Mr. Robert Bruce, advocate, to visit Belgium and France during summer; and having had the good fortune to be admitted as a party in this interesting excursion, I set out with them to Newcastle on the 27th of July.


No communication had been established between Holland and the northern part of the British coast since the conclusion of hostilities ; we therefore determined to make for Kingstonon-Hull, as being the nearest seaport where we could hope to meet with a packet bound for the Continent.


Our first halt was at Lauder, where we breakfasted ; and I remember Sir Walter entering the inn with a quotation, which he was fond of repeating on such occasions,


" Their breakfast so warm to be sure they did eat,
A custom in travellers mighty discreet." ...'

Versailles

On May 6, 1682, King Louis XIV moved his court to Versailles.  Walter Scott visited Versailles in 1815.  Some of Scott's observations, and a bit of a Scottish song Scott remembered were recorded by John Scott, who traveled to Belgium and France with Walter, Alexander Pringle, and Robert Bruce.  John Scott's "Journal of a tour to Waterloo and Paris in company with Sir Walter Scott"  was published in 1842.  An excerpt:

"...The fineness of the day, and the beauty of our drive, however, restored our equanimity. We passed through Marli* and St. Germain, where we paused to look at the palace. I was aware that we should pass this ancient abode of the house of Stuart, and was of course anxious to hear what the supposed author of Waverley might say on the occasion. He did not entirely pass over the subject, and mentioned one or two well-known anecdotes respecting the family. The topic, however, was evidently one to which he was unwilling to refer, and I therefore forbore to press it so much as I confess I felt inclined to do.



We admired the extensive view from the terrace ; and could not help wondering at the preference given by Louis XIV. to the comparatively dull situation of Versailles—" the favourite without merit," as it was called by the wits of the court.



* Scott's additional words to the song,


" Bannocks of beer meal,
Bannocks of barley;
Here's to the lads
That eat bannocks of barley;"


may be recollected by his friends ; I know not if they were ever published.

" Who is't keeps guard
At Versailles and at Marli?
Who but the lads
That eat bannocks of barley?"...